Monday 27 June 2011

Bloomin' gussets

I hate gussets. No matter which way I put them in, they don't work. I have two large hip gussets for this corset, and they will not play nice. So I have top stitched them in with a close zig zag on the inside layer, and will cover them with binding or tape on the outside. And to think, I chose this corset because there were no gussets! (Until I added them to make a good shape!)

Saturday 25 June 2011

Slow progress this week

I finished the shift with some narrow broderie anglais trim, after fighting to make it look neat. I was determined to hide the edge, so I used bias binding to put on the broderie anglais. (Found out it was 1/4" off, so had to be unpicked and redone.)

There has to be an easier way to do tucks though. I am putting tucks on the petticoat, instead of cording and it is taking for ever. I hoped I'd got some more wide broderie anglais to trim the petticoat, but the piece isn't quite long enough. I have some narrower, gathered on an insertion heading, which might work.

I'm having a slow week, as I am putting off finishing the corset - the alterations worked, so I really have no excuse. I have to decide how to the boning/stiffening. Then I have the dress to do and the cap.

I have been discussing 18th century fabrics with a friend/colleague who is planning a dress. I love this blue from William Booth Draper, very similar to the dress in the Kyoto collection.

Tuesday 21 June 2011

Another good fitting - 1827

Yesterday I had another fitting with the couple of musicians who are getting 1827 clothes. She loved her underwear, and I sorted out to armholes of the shift so it fits better! The drawers have tucks and broderie anglais, and some lace on the shift will complete the pretty. (Don't have small scale broderie anglais so the trim won't match.)

The corset is a bit of a problem. Drafted from a pattern in "Waisted Efforts" which I don't usually like, I then altered it because this lovely corset was posted, and the alterations made a big difference to the fit, as she is somewhat "straight" up and down, and gussets at the bust didn't help. The single piece centre panel, and seams that go over the bust made a big difference.I added large hip gussets, and will straighten the back a little as the gap isn't even when fully laced.

The bodice pattern worked very well, although not truly correct for the period. There are no darts at the waist, but a shaped side seam under the arm. The darts simply don't work - to do with the straight up and down shape again. However, the fit was good, and the original white muslin collar which I found in my stash, fitted the neckline perfectly - a real bonus. Sleeves drafted from Hunnisett, then altered slightly, also worked - she needs flexibility for playing the violin. The front will have a band to hide the hooks and eyes - totally impractical to have it open, and pins simply won't work in this situation.

His fitting also went well - I'd added a bit to the trousers width - they are meant to be looser fitting. The wasitcoat, which I had agonised over for hours, was a perfect fit, and the collar, which I had despaired of, worked like a dream - and it all fitted together well - hope it ends up like that!

Friday 17 June 2011

Caps and corsets

I made up, mostly by hand, the 18th century cap in a firm linen, and only have to add some lace. I realised , once I'd finished, that I had reversed the curve on the "ear flaps" but it looks fine - just need to alter the pattern so as not to do it again.

I undid the sleeves on the shift, plus the gussets and will replace them tomorrow - I think I know what I did wrong, and if not I can fudge it. I also made the alterations on the corset and cut that out in drill - I need to cut a couple of backs so I can make it up with the lacing holes for the fitting. I also made the bold decision to add gussets - I hate gussets - but I think it will make all the difference. Lots of putting bits together tomorrow and doing a bit to the gentleman, so I am ready for the fittings on Monday. I seem to have lost more than the week I spent in Manchester!

Tuesday 14 June 2011

Real sewing today!

Today I actually picked up a needle! I moved the bar on my green matka skirt, stitched the zip up a cit as it was rather long, and stitched an inexplicable gap in a seam where I must have had a thread break or something, and not noticed.

Then I took the padding out of a pretty grey bra - my size doesn't take kindly to padding! However, I ended up with bifurcated boobs as the seam lines ran straight across them, and no amount of tweaking could improve the shape, so that went in the bin (a cheap buy from E bay.)

I then carefully darned one underarm sleeve of my lilac shirt - I have exactly the same linen, so was able to reinforce it underneath too. I plan to make a pair of trousers, or a skirt, or both, to match. (The sleeve rubs on the velcro'd crossover strap of my back pack - I need to find a way of covering that.)

And finally, I started the fine hem on the front edge of the 1750's cap I am making for the Mary Blandy outfit.



Then I went to a free "The Sisteen" concert!

Monday 13 June 2011

Another sewing-less weekend!

Went to the Wallace Collection http://www.wallacecollection.org/ with my colleague, and spent ages staring at lovely paintings, especially the miniatures! That was Saturday, before she left for home.

Sunday we drove over to my son's, again, as his Dad had killed his computer, again, and the son is a genius-geek top class. Shopping brought several goodies, including 3 new t-shirts for £1.00!! (My credit card gives vouchers for the store I use, and I had several!) But no sewing.

And today I spent writing letters regarding the tour, and clearing up the jumble sale that was my bedroom, again, and this time actually throwing dead clothes away - and having bought a great fedora in Manchester, finally threw away the broken trilby I got in Disneyland, far longer ago than I care to remember!

Friday 10 June 2011

Visiting costume displays!

I just spent a few days in Manchester, running round looking at all sorts of things. Owing to circumstances beyond our control, we scooted in to Platt Hall seconds before closing, so had no time to study anything , but were able to see a dress patterned by Janet Arnold, below.



We also saw this well known chemise dress. There were other wonders, but no chance to examine anything. That's for the future!

We also visited the Whitworth Art Gallery which also has textiles and garments, one of which jackets is mentioned in "Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd" - with clouds on it. I cannot work out how to search the database, but they did say that most things are on there.

I did take sewing with me, but needless to say, nothing got done!